BikesTravel

North coast 500 by motorcycle: The midlands to John’o groats and back again.

Exploring the North Coast 500 by motorcycle has become a quintessential touring right of passage for many uk motorcyclists. Once a lesser known route, for the hardiest of uk motorcycle tourers, this route has now become a staple for UK Motorcycle touring, and a right of passage for many.

The great thing about travelling the North Coast 500 by motorycle is that you can’t really go wrong. It’s all awesome. The route is well signposted, and the whole thing is well supported. Picking the right time of year will help you avoid the traffic, but even at peak time there is so much expanse of road that you’ll still have plenty of opportunities to feel like you’re miles away from anyone.

Top tips for riding the North Coast 500 from the midlands

1. Don’t miss all the cool stuff on the way

Being in the Midlands, it is a bit of a trek up to Scotland, but the upside to that is that there’s loads of cool stuff along the way.

If you plan your route well you can have an excellent trip up through the peaks, Yorkshire dales, and the Lake District, and hit the north Pennines on your way home. If you have the time to break it up with a stopover on your way I highly recommend it.

2. Check the midge forecast

If you’re on your bike most of the time, you’ll be mostly covered by your gear anyway, but even so, it’s worth planning your trip around seasons where midges are less prevalent.  A forecast for midges does exist.

A light breeze will mostly keep them away, as will the rain so there’s some trade-off to be had. Mostly it’ll probably be luck

Try https://www.smidgeup.com/midge-forecast/ to see what it’s like when you’re travelling.

3. It’s gon’ rain.

Assume it will rain at some point. Probably more than once, regardless of the season. If you’re lucky you’ll get the odd day. If you’re unlucky, you’ll be in the rain the whole week. Go prepared with a plan for wet weather riding. You’ll be on the bike for a long time each day and soggy Kevlar jeans get real boring real fast. Get a laminated textile suit for ease to avoid having to keep stopping and changing, failing that your usual all-in-one body condom solution is an option too. 

Just taking a rain jacket, and nothing for your lower half would be a mistake. 

4. Go anticlockwise

There’s great debate as to whether clockwise or anti-clockwise is better. 

The people who think clockwise is better, are incorrect.

Here’s why. 

The east coast is fairly dull compared to the rest of the route and basically stays that way all the way up to John o’ Groats.

John o’ Groats is also pretty bleak. There’s very little there, and it’s a grind to get to, not difficult, just boring.

If you go clockwise you go through all the cool stuff first, gradually decreasing in coolness until you get to john o groats. At which point, the main fun is pretty much over and you know have the boring ride all the way home from the most northerly part of the UK.

If you go anti-clockwise however, you get yourself up to John o’ Groats, take your selfie, go ‘that was a bit shit’ and then continue on your ride with all of the cool stuff yet to come. 

Also, when you do the apple-cross pass, it means you are looking downhill into the valley, and the view is truly staggering in that direction. Anti-clockwise is definitely your best bet for exploring the North Coast 500 by motorcycle. 

5. Book in advance

Some like the sense of adventure of just packing up and going, finding accommodation or camping as they go. There’s a place for that, but it wouldn’t be my preference to explore the North Coast 500 by motorcycle. 
 
The route is now so popular that it gets booked up quite early on, and so many people now trek up there hoping just to wing it, that you’ll likely struggle.
 
Scotland is also pretty big, and you’ll be in the most remote parts. If you ride until you’re tired, and then start looking for a b&b, it could be another 2 or 3 hours riding before you find somewhere. At which point you’re starting to get really very knackered.
 
If you’re camping, it’s likely to be a similar story if you want facilities that campsites offer – it’s going to get busy. Wild camping is something people do, and Scotland tends to be a lot more open to wild camping than the rest of the Uk. But that brings me to my next point…
 

6. B&B > Camping

I’ve done the bike camping thing and loved it as many people do. But I’d personally recommend getting B&B accommodation for a trip around the north coast of Scotland. 
 
It gets cold and wet and the days are long. A hot shower, a warm cosy bed and a full fry-up in the morning is the truly the way to live. 
 
Hostels are also available, but it was the tail end of the pandemic when I went, so it wasn’t really an option for me at the time.  
 
If you choose camping – check out my motorcycle camping kit list for ideas on what to take.
 
7. B&B > Cheap hotels
 

I had some excellent B&Bs on my trip and some really weird cheap hotels. There seems to be a ream of old hotels from the ’60s or ’70s that are trying to now make a comeback, but with very limited investment to make them better. 

My experience from the couple of places I stayed in that called themselves hotels, was really a bit weird. The B&Bs were far superior, in comfort, food and staff friendliness. 

8. Can I do the North Coast 500 on ‘X’ bike?

If you go into a North Coast 500 motorcycle touring forum on Facebook or wherever else and ask if your particular motorcycle is suitable for the trip – expect to get a bit of grief. 
 
People do the route on literally anything you can imagine – although you’ll see many a large BMW touring machine, you’ll also come across people who have done the route on cruisers, mopeds, 125s, supersports, dirt bikes and every other type of bike or wheeled machine you can imagine. 
 
The answer is yes you can do it on whatever bike you have. The reality is you’ll want to fully understand what it’s going to be like for you, though, before you make that decision to leave on your monkey bike or whatever it is you have. 
 
If you don’t know whether you think you’ll be able to enjoy the trip on the particular machine you’re thinking of – you probably haven’t spent enough time riding that machine. Definitely go for a shorter tour first, a couple of days in Wales is a great option. Get a feel for what it’s like to be on your bike for a long period of time – whether that screen is actually helping you or making it noisier, whether a sheep skin makes your seat comfier, or whether you want to think about installing heated grips – are the boxer shorts you normally wear comfortable for being in the saddle all day long?
 

9. You don’t need as much stuff with you as you think

So up in Scotland, you are pretty far away from stuff. But you’re not THAT far away. About 20 mins from John o’ Groats there’s an Argos. You can still buy stuff, so don’t panic too much about what you might need to ‘survive’ up there. 

10. Plan your petrol stops, and then chill out about it

There are quite a lot of petrol stops available on the route, so you don’t need to panic about it or worry about carrying extra fuel or anything like that. 
 
That being said, many fuel stops are single pump, self-service, pay by card situations aren’t always easy to spot, and you may have to turn off the main route to find a stop. So google where the stops are, put them on your map, or sat nav or whatever it is you’re using to navigate – and then chill out and enjoy your ride. 

The video from my trip

If you want to see some of the route you can take a look at my video here. Full disclosure – it’s pretty long, but have a skip through to see different bits of the route. 

North Coast 500 motorcycle route from the Midlands

 
Here’s the route I took over 7 days from the Midlands (obviously hiding where I actually live!) The NC 500 part goes off track slightly in the early stages to skip some of the boring bits of the A9 and go inland a bit – which was pretty good fun. 
 
 

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